On the streets of Tehran, the imagery from Argo and journalistic coverage censored by western intelligence agencies is easily belied. Irani women smoke in public, drive cars, publicly display affection for male companions, and confidently make eye contact to acknowledge an alien’s presence and smile a welcome. Many head scarves just about cover the back of the head – a ritual of compliance.
Iran is neither male-domineered Saudi Arabia nor an Afghanistan under the Taliban. Social media websites are widely accessed although officially banned. Foreign exchange is transacted on the streets – the official exchange rate is just over one-third of the street value – and every minute, the liquid market throws up a vibrant new price for the U.S. dollar. Coke and Pepsi make brisk business – despite economic sanctions, they are permitted by the U.S. to be bottled in Iran on “humanitarian grounds” that are exceptions to the rule. DVDs of banned Hollywood films, including Argo, are easily available on the streets. Whispers of alcohol flowing freely in private parties abound as much as the prohibition on alcohol stands out nationwide.